The Musk

Musk Nepali ThaliAbout a hundred years ago, a Haap left Bhutan for Kalimpong. He didn’t return home, choosing, instead, to settle down, with other Bhutanese, in Dolopchen, a small hamlet near Pedong.

Several generations later, his great granddaughter, Deki Lhamu, is back in Bhutan. And, together with her husband, Jigme Norbu, she owns and runs Musk, a restaurant in the clock tower square. Musk (formed by reversing the last four letters of CHOKSUM, their daughter’s name) specializes in Kalimpong food – a delightful blend of Bhutanese, Sikkimese, Tibetan and Nepali cuisines.

I enjoy their menu. So, I go there often. If you like Nepali food, go there on any Thursday. That’s when they serve their Nepali Thali, a sumptuous set lunch consisting of rice, mutton or pork curry, aloo sabji, gundrook (fermented saag soup), alu bhaji (shredded potatoes fried to a crisp), papad and a spicy sauce made from dale, tomatoes and garlic. Simply delicious. I know, because that’s what I had for lunch today.

But, if you prefer Bhutanese food, go there on Fridays for their Bhutanese Bangchu.

And they serve up many other delicacies too, from roast chicken to momos and thukpa. My favourite is “dhopdhop”, a spice-less curry made from beef, tomatoes, onions, ginger and chilies. Deki says that the “dhopdhop” was created by her grandmother, and that it is not available anywhere else.

Except for Mondays, Musk is open everyday for lunch and dinner.


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  1. And if you are in New York, go to Yak Restaurant in Queens. They serve Nepali, Tibetan and some Bhutanese cuisine. I went there a couple of times and I couldn’t complain, specially when you are some ten thousand miles away from home. But if you do like the ‘real stuff’, just call up one of your friends who live in Queens. They keep the real stuffs. No clue how they find it, some say they bring it in via DHL. I make a trip to my friends’ place in Queens ‘memzumbey’ and they always welcome me with Phaksha Paa and emadatshi (slurp, slurp).

  2. Wow…Yummy ya! Lobxang in NY…what are you doing there?

  3. Will try one of these days. Hope they don’t use musk instead of cheese and zoetey!!!

  4. Mr. Viewer says

    i too agree to what Lhenpo wrote with the menus and dishes watering your mouth as you soon enter the entrance of MUSK. As i am writing this comment i can feel my mouth water so its almost lunch time so i better rush to MUSK before its buzzed with ppl. I am not a frequent visitor but as long as i go there to stuff a steamy momo i would say its a mouth watering treat.

  5. Mr. Viewer says

    fellows go visit musk.
    You might find au Jigme seroius at the counter or under the umbrella outiside but he is a warmly chap. He is as steamy as his momos can be but when you nibble into it as dilicious as it can be.
    I’m off from office now before the momos finish.

  6. You can visit YAK restaurant in San Francisco also on the Lombard Street.
    And a YAK restaurant in Kathmandu Thamel too. All good for Bhutanese taste.

  7. Even in south east asia i am missing musk food. can you beat it……../


  1. […] first one to figure out the big picture wins lunch at the Musk. […]

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